Friday, January 09, 2009

A farm, a baptism, and a feliz cumpleaños

I'm back in San Isidro, and I've finally got some time to get you all caught up.

We spent the first couple of days after the New Year exploring San Isidro's surrounding areas. The first side trip was a quick one to the local river to watch a baptism for some young members of Aimee's host family's church.

They're Evangelical Christians, and apparently their meetings include speaking in tongues, and are quite a sight to see. This particular baptism was relatively mundane, but did involve fully clothed swimming by the pastor and the baptise-ees.



Catholicism is still the major religion (as it is for all Latin American countries that I can think of), but los evangelicos have a pretty significant foothold. Their churches are smaller, but more prolific. Many cities seem to have a few small Evangelical churches, but they only serve one or two extended families.

The next side trip took us to the farm of Aimee's host-sister's boyfriend. He works for the regional Pepsi offices (which is unquestionably one of the nicer jobs around here). To show how seriously he values his job, he avoids drinking not only Coke, but also all other Coke products. We've been out with him on several occasions when he's refused to drink a beer, because the restaurant didn't stock the one that Pepsi distributes. At first, I thought that this was a little ridiculous, but when I realized how scarce jobs are (and how nice his is), I understood. But I still drink anything that's put in front of me. It's a habit.

Anyway, we went to the farm that he bought as a sort of retreat. His purchase also included a family of campesinos that live and work one the land. They're free to leave, but aren't likely to, since there aren't many jobs for them to leave to.



They were in the middle of clearing the land when we arrived.



The locals utilize the scorched earth method of land clearing, in which they'll use a machete to clear the larger trees, and then burn out the fallen limbs and low growth. It's a common technique throughout the region, including in Brazil, where they're burning down the rainforest to plant corn or soybeans that will eventually be used to produce ethanol. I cringed when I heard that for the first time, but after seeing firsthand how farmland can provide much needed jobs, food and exports (and to some locals, the rainforest doesn't seem to produce much more than malaria), I realized that it's not such a black and white decision.

But on a lighter note, I added another incident onto my growing roster of reasons to dislike horses. The farm was separated from the road that we arrived on by a pretty large river (coincidentally, the same one from the baptism). Since I was in no mood to find God, I wanted to stay dry. Option #2: horseback.

This is Aimee's, "you've got to be kidding me" face.



And this is Mayela, Aimee's host-sister, and her boyfriend (the owner) crossing the river.



I looked far less coordinated.

Our other trip took us to Matagalpa, the capital city of the departamento that includes San Isidro. The city is essentially the county seat, and was bustling with activity for the New Year. It's a cool little cultural city with great food and friendly people. I couldn't think of a better way to spend my birthday.